Description of Rene Magritte's nightly drinking place

La Fleur en Papier Dore
(The Flower in Gold Paper)

On 53 rue de Alexiens in Brussels, Belgium, this is a hard to find, tiny, crowded French-speaking locals' bar in a commercial neighborhood, near an office building, two blocks from a row of tourist restaurants.  I stopped in for a pint of brew one night in June of 1995.

Filled with bench seats and lots of little tables, the bar in the back serves Duvel and Stella Artois beer on tap.  Darkish and crusty brown in color, dusty old framed images cover the walls, interspersed with scribbles, poems and graffiti.  They include reproductions of Clouet, and Brueghel paintings, and Velasquez's "Las Meninas."

Resting on one wall is an antique doll encased in an oval frame in blue velvet, with convex glass and clusters of flowers on each side.  "What does all this say about Magritte?" I thought.


There are no images by the Belgian surrealist that I could find inside, no photos of him with the owner, no evidence whatsoever that Magritte ever frequented this establishment, which is consistent with his personality.  He once wrote that when asked what the relationship between his art and his life was, "I couldn't really think of any, except that life obliges me to do something, so I paint."  And to those who tried to interpret his pictures, he would answer with the poet Mallarme's old quote: "You are more fortunate than I am."

In the end La Fleur en Papier Dore was simply the bar where he drank.
                                                                                           -Ken Magri